An unchurned, non custard base ice cream that seduces anyone who tries it, this is not a sickly toffee/fudge sweet ice cream but the more sophisticated cooked caramel type.
It’s a creme caramel flavour- sweet yet bordering on bitter- a flavour to savour in the mouth long after the final swallow.
I have made this recipe countless times but we had it as an accompaniment to Tarte Tatin and it was a perfect match. Ice cream rarely stands up to the flavour of apple and caramel, but this, being of the same caramel technique not only stood alongside it, but enhanced and shored up the flavour.
It isn’t slow to melt due to its lack of custard base which is another point in its favour- you taste the caramel quickly and it lingers.
This is a John Torode recipe that I ripped out of an old Olive magazine and he says of this recipe that it has been a favourite for years and it’s not hard to see why; it’s easy to make, requires no specialised equipment, melts beautifully and is utterly delicious.

As an aside, I was flicking through a set of Marguerite Patten magazines that I rescued from the tip (and only paid £1 for to the man there) and discovered that this is her suggested method for making ice cream, although she uses the whole rather than just yolk of the egg. That opens up the opportunity for differing flavours whilst maintaining the ease with which it’s made.
Try this one first though; dinner party, simple dessert or evening solace, it’s an outstanding flavour.

Put the sugar and 100ml cold water into a large saucepan.

Heat it slowly, swirling to dissolve the sugar

then boil quickly until it turns a dark amber caramel colour.

Nearly there

There.

Remove from the heat and from a distance gradually add another 200ml cold water to stop the caramel from cooking further. It will splutter wildly so be cautious. You will note I didn’t take photos of this bit…
Return to a low heat and simmer and swirl to melt any stubborn lumps of caramel.

Remove from the heat and set to one side.

Put 4 egg yolks in a bowl (I used my kitchenaid)

whisk them until pale and thick.

Pour the caramel into the whisked yolks in a thin stream, whisking constantly,

and continue to whisk until cool. It will thicken and get much paler during this time.

Whip the cream just to soft peaks, then gently but thoroughly fold into the caramel mixture. Just look at how velvety that egg/caramel mixture is; it’s incredible.

Pour into a 2 litre plastic container with a lid and freeze for 24 hours.

This is just so good to eat

But this is the saddest part.

Breaks your heart…

Heyho, another batch it is then!

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John Torode’s Caramel Ice cream from Olive magazine

PRINT THIS RECIPE (opens in a new window)

225g caster sugar
100 + 200ml cold water
4 egg yolks
600ml double cream

Put the sugar and 100ml cold water into a large saucepan.
Heat it slowly, swirling to dissolve the sugar, then boil quickly until it turns a dark amber caramel colour.

Remove from the heat and from a distance gradually add another 200ml cold water to stop the caramel from cooking further. It will splutter wildly so be cautious.
Return to a low heat and simmer and swirl to melt any stubborn lumps of caramel.
Remove from the heat and set to one side.
Use an electric whisk to whisk the egg yolks until pale and thick.
Pour the caramel into the whisked yolks in a thin stream, whisking constantly, and continue to whisk until cool.
Whip the cream to soft peaks then gently but thoroughly fold into the caramel mixture.
Pour into a 2 litre plastic container with a lid and freeze for 24 hours.

The original recipe from ‘Olive’ magazine uses Pedro Ximenez sherry; it’s an absolutely delicious Sherry with a very raisin-y taste, but I didn’t have any on hand; instead, my larder boasted a big bottle of Marsala and frankly, what is there to dislike about that?

A boozy cake, but boozy without being rasping or obnoxious.
This cake isn’t the lashed-up lout who pushes over your dustbin on a Saturday night and then vomits over your Winter pansies, no, no. It is the elderly Aunt who, on a Sunday lunchtime visit, has a revealing whiff of something floral and fortified about her, who wears unusual jewellery and asks you about boys you like.  Cool, elegant and engaging. Most excellent.

Soak 200g raisins in 100ml Marsala for around an hour to allow them to plump up a little.

Preheat the oven to GM4/180C/350F and butter and line a 9″ springform tin.

Beat 250g unsalted butter and 250g caster sugar until pale and fluffy (high five!)

Beat 4 eggs with a fork

and painfully slowly add them to the mixture. Trickle, trickle.

Add 200g ground almonds and fold them in

Then add 100g polenta and 100g self-raising flour and thoroughly fold that in too.

Finally, add the raisins and their soaking liquid to the mixture. Thoroughly fold them in to evenly disperse them.

Pour/spoon the mixture into the tin

Bake in the oven for around 1 hour. Check after 50 mins, just in case. The cake should feel firm and springy to the touch.

Pierce the top of the cake relentlessly with a fine skewer, or my stabby instrument of choice, the toothpick.

Evenly pour/spoon another 150ml Marsala over the top and allow the cake to cool.

Mmmmmm.

Once cooled, dust with icing sugar to serve.

I’ll show you a slice once we cut it. Only have to wait a day, only have to wait a day, I wonder whether Ian’s Mum would mind there being a slice missing… I mean, it’s in the interest of my reader(s)… get a grip, Anna…one day!

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Marsala Raisin and Almond Cake

PRINT THIS RECIPE (opens in a new window)

(adapted from an ‘Olive’ magazine recipe)

200g raisins
100ml + 150ml Marsala
250g butter
250g caster sugar
4 eggs, beaten
200g ground almonds
100g polenta
100g self-raising flour

icing sugar to dust

Soak the raisins in 100ml Marsala until they have plumped a little – about 30 mins to 1 hr.

Preheat oven to GM4/180C/350F
Butter and line a 9″ springform tin

Beat the butter and sugar until fluffy and pale. Add the eggs, very slowly.

Add the ground almonds, then polenta, then the flour; folding each addition in.
Add the raisins and the soaking liquid. Fold in thoroughly to evenly distribute.

Pour/spoon the mixture into the tin and bake for around 50-60 mins until firm and springy to the touch.

Prick all over the top of the cake with a cocktail stick and evenly spoon the remaining 150ml Marsala over the top and allow to cool.
Dust with icing sugar to serve.